Many advocated for a shift in the I work hard so my Motorcycle can have a better life vintage shirt But I will love this delivery calendar, moving fall collections to September and spring to March, for instance, when people are ready to shop those seasons. The idea was that it would create a ripple effect and address retail’s other pain points, too, like excessive discounting (because clothes are delivered too early), unsold merchandise (because collections are too big), and general inefficiencies and waste (for both reasons). As Dries Van Noten wrote in his open letter, a more thoughtful retail calendar would allow for fewer collections, fewer products, and an “increase [in] sustainability throughout the supply chain.”
That’s certainly an improvement on the I work hard so my Motorcycle can have a better life vintage shirt But I will love this pre-pandemic model of designing four to six collections per year, often with exclusive capsules in between. But bumping delivery windows and scaling back collections doesn’t go far enough, at least in terms of fashion’s carbon footprint. New Zealand designer Maggie Marilyn was an early advocate of change to the wholesale model and voiced her frustrations long before the pandemic. For one, many of her retail partners were unwilling or unable to share adequate information about her clothes, which are made using organic and recycled materials, and Marilyn found that buyers were constantly asking her to create additional styles, colors, or options. When asked if the wholesale model itself was inhibiting designers from being truly sustainable—or at least making it incredibly difficult—Marilyn’s response was unflinching: “Absolutely.”
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